What is White Tie? Breaking Down the Elusive Dress Code We've Forgotten

Wedding Season is Here!

It’s time to save the date, dust off your favorite pumps, and get dressed to the nines. Whether the invitations ask for cocktail or black-tie attire, any occasion to dress up is a treat. But once upon a time, black tie was only the little brother of the much more sophisticated white tie dress code. 

If you’ve never seen white tie on an invitation—or even heard of it—you’re not alone! It’s a last vestige of a more formal time, but when it does pop up, it’s an occasion to jump at.

Where else can you wear your finest diamonds, satin gloves, and even a tiara?

White tie emerged at the beginning of the Victorian era in England where it was a less elaborate version of the era’s maximalist, ruffled evening wear. By the 1870s, its popularity had only grown—and crossed the Atlantic—making it the standard formal dress code.

Come the 20^th century, however, World War I put a damper on formal occasions, and the Jazz Age brought less formal attire into style. The black tie we’re more familiar with today took over, leaving white tie as almost forgotten…

…until it shows up unexpected on the invite for your sophisticated friend’s wedding or the event of the year. Now what? What does white tie mean, what can you wear, and what are the hidden faux pas? 

White Tie for Men

The white tie dress code for men is an easy place to start. It’s much more straight-forward and strict than women’s white tie attire, so it sets the framework for the spirit behind white tie. And, of course, you can help out your boyfriend or husband when he’s your plus one!

He’ll need a few key items: 

• A stiff white shirt with a wing collar, with single-folded cuffs, and without buttons

• Light studs (such as mother of pearl) to fasten the shirt

• A white bowtie 

• Cufflinks

• A low-cut white waistcoat

• High-waisted trousers with double grosgrain or two lines of braid on the side

• Black leather laced shoes

• Black dress socks

• A black tailcoat

If he’s up for it, he can optionally wear white gloves, a black top hat, and even a dress cane. And for a white tie wedding, he can get away with a tuxedo jacket without the tails. 

White Tie for Women

For women, white tie is not so rigid. Rather than a (relatively) straight-forward suit, there are thousands of dresses to choose from, accessories to add, and hairstyles to master. To choose the right outfit, there are a few key principles to remember. 

As the man’s outfit is meant to emanate sophistication, simplicity, and class, so should a lady’s outfit show elegance and quiet grace. Even though white tie is opulent, consider its origins in the Victorian era when it was a more minimalist alternative; even when wearing your best pearls, less can still be more. 

The first step is to choose the dress since it will be the center of your attire. The dress needs to be a floor-length evening gown, and it should be a tasteful color—stay away from patterns or anything too bold. 

You’ll want a fitted bodice with a flowing or voluminous skirt. Modesty also is key to the class of white tie events, so select a symmetrical dress with no slits or cutouts, and embrace the power of feminine mystery. 

That said, unless the event details otherwise, bare shoulders can be appropriate. You can also opt to wear a shawl or elbow-length white gloves. Just remember that the gloves are a commitment: You have to keep them on throughout the whole evening, except when eating.

Once you have your dress ready, it’s time to look through your jewelry collection—or use the occasion to treat yourself to a new pair of earrings! 

As with the gown, the accessories should be elegant, not gawdy. Diamonds, pearls, and other birthstones are an excellent choice, and one pair of earrings, one bracelet, and one necklace (if your dress neckline allows) is plenty of decoration for any white tie event. 

Finish your accessories with a pair of neutral-colored and closed-toe heels as well as a clutch that matches your dress. 

Finally, when you’re ready to do your hair and makeup, continue the theme of quiet sophistication. Err on the side of natural-looking makeup with artfully applied foundation, a brush of blush, soft eyeshadow and eyeliner, and your favorite mascara. Pin all of your hair up, and you can add a special hairpin, or—if you’re not at a wedding—you can even wear a tiara. 

Now you and your beau are ready for the fanciest event you’ll ever attend! Or if you’re still dreaming of the event of a lifetime, you’ll be prepared when your opportunity to shine comes (and you can give dress code clues to your friends). Either way, you’ll be looking glamorous!